Peaks and… More Peaks (Highlights from VinoVIP Cortina 2024, Part 2)
Welcome to Part 2 of the highlights from my media jaunt to VinoVIP 2024, held in Italy’s rather dramatic (landscape-wise, anyway) locale of Cortina. For more background on the event, head over to Part 1.
The main draw of VinoVIP is the grand tasting, held at Rifugio Faloria. This lodge is situated pretty much perfectly on Monte de Faloria, with incredible views that are best experienced outside of its stuffy interior; at least, it gets stuffy when filled to the brim with thirsty wine tasters and producers eager to pour for them.
Rifugio Faloria sits at nearly 7,000 feet in elevation, and reaching it requires taking two rounds of cable cars that get as near to being vertical as they can without defying the laws of physics. Fortunately, I am not afraid of heights… but the experience nearly made me start to seriously consider being afraid of heights. Here’s the view of the ascent looking back from the lodge; take a good look and you’ll understand what I meant:
I mean, holy sh*t!!!
The somewhat terrifying ascent was well worth it, not just for the views from the summit, but also for the Italian wines being featured in the tasting, a gathering which itself constituted a summit of sorts of some of the country’s best offerings.
Consider the following a small glimpse into the embarrassment of riches that VinoVIP 2024 had to offer those of us fortunate enough to have braved the journey…
2022 Tenuta San Guido ‘Guidalberto’, Toscana, $80
Rather young, rather herbal, and sporting rather finely-grained tannins, the 2022 vintage of this often-stellar red showcases a wonderful purity in its expression of red and black fruits. It’s a difficult wine to resist already, and is only going to get better from here.
2021 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri, $350
There’s a whole hell of a lot going on in this release of Sassicaia… Gorgeous herbal tones, incredibly juicy notes of blackcurrants and plums, a tightly-wound, powerful structure in the mouth, and a crap-ton of savory, plummy fruit flavor. It’s a strong vintage, an even stronger statement and hell, even the minerality feels strong!
2017 Berlucchi ’61 Nature Blanc de Blancs, Franciacorta, $NA
The first thing that stands out about this bubbly is its laser-like, apple-crisp acidity. Having said that, the texture also presents some fantastic round, ripe pear action to balance it out. You can just feel non-vintage Champagnes starting to break a sweat in the presence of bubblies like this one…
2013 Berlucchi Palazzo Lana Extreme Brut, Franciacorta, $NA
This sparkler is insane. Apple bread, dried blossom, yellow apples, pears… It’s packed and everything is jumping right out of the glass in the most alluring fashion possible. It’s fresh and perky, but goes down effortlessly. And the finish was longer than the ascent to Rifugio Faloria.
2023 Cantina Santadi Cala Silente Vermentino di Sardegna, $NA
Consider this a palate cleanser among the other mighty offerings being highlighted here today; I could no resist the floral, chalky, nutty, and citric siren song of this white. It’s peachy and broad in the mouth, with jasmine aplenty and an enduing and endearing sense of fun.
2021 La Viarte Liende Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, $NA
A berry selection white that spends one year aging in bottle, if this isn’t being imported into the States then someone needs to get on that shizz NOW. Lovely ripe citrus action, complemented by notes of melon and mandarin kick off this fresh sipper. There’s just a hint of astringent structure in the mouth that makes the texture fascinating. I could drink an unhealthy amount of this…
2021 Planeta ‘Eruzione 1614’ Carricante, Sicilia, $60
Planeta describes this as “a mountain white,” but I describe it as “further proof why Carriante is Italy’s best white wine variety.” Lemon peel, grilled citrus, white flowers, wet stone, fresh apples… what more do you need? How about a broad entry of juicy fresh lemon and orange that gives way to a line of acidity that feels luxuriant?
2022 Velenosi Villa Angela, Pecorino Offida, $20
Sourced from a single vineyard of vines aged up to about 40 years, 50% of this white was aged in first-use French oak. Yes, we are actually talking about Pecorino here. Spices, pine, citrus, and resin abound, but none of it is annoying. Somehow, you feel the lemony fruit but don’t really feel the oak. This is a crazy wine, and an even crazier value.
2020 Velenosi ‘Roggio del Filare’ Rosso Piceno Superiore, Marche, $69
A blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, this red shines with aromas of herbs, crushed rock, tobacco, leather, baking spices, and cherries. It’s at once silky and chewy, and the excellent palate lift practically begs for repeat sipping.
2021 Velenosi ‘Verso Sera’, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, $NA
Crafted for on-premise only in the USA, this is another single vineyard offering from Velenosi that over-delivers on the minerality. You also get tons of leather,black cherries, orange peel, and even saline. It’s smooth AF, but also does not skimp on the structure. The star of the show is, however, the deep flavor (and excellent finish) of its big, black fruits.
Cheers!
