December 5, 2024

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Patron Saint of Wine is St. Martin


It’s a sweet coincidence that today I’ve been going back and forth with Isabel Ramos, from my first trip in Évora and the Alentejo. Luís Ribeiro is another Portuguese friend, and we were also recently speaking. Arranging a meeting, while there, would have been icing on the cake, but it became complicated. The schedule I had was very busy, so I decided it would happen during my next visit.

 

An image of entering Evora, taken on my first trip, which is tile artwork.

 

In the United States, I wonder how many people who work in wine, equally celebrate St. Martin’s Day? If you’re in our business, do you? People who been to Portugal, most especially during any holiday celebrations, have very fond memories.

 

By Simone Martini - The Yorck Project (2002) 10.000 Meisterwerke der Malerei (DVD-ROM), distributed by DIRECTMEDIA Publishing GmbH. ISBN: 3936122202., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=154865

By Simone Martini – The Yorck Project (2002) 10.000 Meisterwerke der Malerei (DVD-ROM), distributed by DIRECTMEDIA Publishing GmbH. ISBN: 3936122202., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=154865

Intense 10-day Road Visit with Wine Growers and Producers

St. Martin (original name was Magusto) is wine’s patron saint. He’s remembered each year on November 11, but celebrated on the closest Sunday to that actual date. On November 2023, I was in Portugal as a guest of the Alentejo Regional Wine Commission. At this celebration, my energy was to blend into the festivities as a media person, take notes, photos, and make the story come alive. Now, I’m in awe of European customs still retained for their wines and their patron saints.

While living in Maine the first half of my life, my parents raised me as Catholic. My life also included Catholic school. Patron saints ruled, but I was just too young to enjoy St. Martin’s Day. Now I’m wondering if our three Catholic priests held their own private St. Martin’s day parties, and just didn’t tell the congregation about them. (They did have the Vatican to report to, with those customs.) Portugal’s Evora region is where I celebrated, while attending these event (inaugural for me). Racking my brain, i can’t imagine any other celebration of wine that’s persisted for over a thousand years like this one in the US. Can you, honoring a Saint of wine.

Roasting Chestnuts on an open fire

Roasting Chestnuts on an open fire.

Roasting chestnuts on an open fire.

 

Our family grew up singing “Chestnuts Roasting On An Open Fire,” like so many other families, though. It was just a holiday song. All of a sudden it came “alive” for me in Evora. What a focused memory it is! Curiously, it is also a food and wine paring experience. How many trees have edible chestnuts, in the US? They weren’t edible in Maine, where I spent my first 40 years of life. While I have chestnuts trees in our yard, I’ve been told they’re not edible, either. So roasting chestnuts is now a pretty powerful memory, triggered by a remarkable memory of the Alentejo, and I’m wanting more!

The day mesmerized me. A lamb’s leg was on a spit being carved for people  to enjoy (pictured below). Wines from the 1940s were such a special opportunity, and opened for tasting by one producer, who raiding his wine cellar cellar.. Talhas were remarkable to enjoy. Dr. Paul James White, his publisher wife Jennifer Leigh Mortimer (also a contributor), and I became friends during this visit. Paul is Europe’s premier amphora expert, perhaps for the entire world, really. Paul’s book on Amphorae says it all, Talha Tales.

The event at Adega Natus Vini in the Alentejo

The event at Adega Natus Vini in the Alentejo

A Great Question

Having been there, I was asked an important and guiding question, “What was it like to be immersed in Portuguese culture during this special celebration? Were there any customs or moments that stood out for you during your time walking through vineyards and at the wineries?”

Enticing and delicious, in every way... Lola

Enticing and delicious, in every way… Lola

Indeed, so many things stood out, especially the day completely devoted to St. Martin’s day. It has many wonderful memories. Something very simple is one of the most exciting memories, honestly, so very simple, yet so profound. Writing about the event seems so obvious, because there’s a world of ancient and amazing sights in Portugal. There’s culture, uncovering memories, or having parallel ones. Wine travel broadens our perspectives and opens our hearts more. Generally, I highly recommend international travel for anyone, as it enriches our view of the world.

One thing that struck me, throughout this entire visit was all of the uses of Amphorae, which began right here. Amazing images, this one immediately caught my eye.

This Talha really caught my eye, along with the really old olive tree to the center, behind it.

This Talha (a name for Alentejo’s clay pots) really caught my eye, along with the really old olive tree to the center, behind it.

Remembering The Heart of It

For me it’s not just about checking off boxes or getting the “perfect” information. Sometimes, I allow myself to be swept away by the people, places, and the things, like atmosphere and comradery. This perspective was valuable, beyond tasting every single wine. The Day was about capturing that feeling of being fully present and engaged with all of my surroundings.

Adega Natus Vini in the Alentejo

Adega Natus Vini in the Alentejo

Telling you every detail of every wine I tasted would be a different story. Heart and soul is the direction. Each moment had me on overload. Perhaps I could have been asking questions, taking notes, and so on, but I did very little of that. The atmosphere was so captivating that asking questions and taking notes seemed to take a backseat to simply experiencing the moment. Alentejo 101 completely took precedence. Portuguese people at this event were really joyful, old friends. There was an urge to just be happy with them during this day.

Herdade do Rocim Alentejo

Herdade do Rocim Alentejo

Next, I attended another event that afternoon into the evening at Herdade do Rocim, and was another Alentejo adventure. This one was about the 6,000 year history of wine amphorae, and how it has impacted the Portuguese culture..

 

 



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